Hip Mediterranean destination. The best sights. Old fashioned and ultra-modern. Compact maze of palaces, markets, beaches. Funky shops. Paella. Celebrity architects with Visions of the Future. Fabulous Las Fallas: Spain's biggest and wildest party. Old men with puppies in Pla‡a Redonda. Stylish clubs. Flowers in the plazas. Where to eat, drink and sleep. The Albufera: birds and pollution. Alicante and Costa Blanca.