Norton of Everest

Major Norton gave the order to fire two or three
times ... Their advanced machine gunners could be seen rushing forward and
establishing themselves in commanding posts ... Almost at once the ridge we were
occupying was swept by machine gun fire ...

E.F. Norton lived a life of distinction in the declining years of the
British Empire. Born into an accomplished,
well-travelled family, he followed his heart and enlisted for a professional
career as a soldier. A distinguished military career followed, punctuated with
indulgences in his passion for exploration and mountaineering. The British
Empire was starting to crumble, and Norton would be called upon more than once
to rise to a variety of challenges.

Norton's gift for leadership was first demonstrated
via his rapid progression through the ranks in the First World War, which paved
the way for future leadership appointments, having earned the confidence and
respect of those under his command. Events in the Second World War followed
suit, when Norton was abruptly assigned the post of acting governor of Hong
Kong, entrusted to save the civilian population from imminent Japanese invasion.

The 1924 Everest expedition also exemplifies the
pattern of having had leadership thrust upon him - in this case when General
Charles Bruce was struck down by malaria on the approach march. Leading from
the front, Norton set an altitude record for climbing on Everest without
supplementary oxygen - a record only bettered in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and
Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Yet tragedy
would follow Norton's achievement, when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine
disappeared high on the mountain.

In Norton of Everest, Hugh Norton has written sensitively and
knowledgably about his father's remarkable life as mountaineer, soldier,
naturalist, artist and family man. As on Everest, the real story is not only
the death of the gallant, but also the heroics of the quiet survivors like E.F.
Norton.