After years of diplomatic isolation Syria is emerging from the cold. Its government is a key Middle Eastern player, and will be a major element of any possible comprehensive Middle Eastern peace deal. To visit Syria is to become acquainted with one of the most rewarding destinations in the Middle East. Its historic attractions are stunning, and the Syrians are proud and gracious hosts; you can expect to be treated like a person and not just a tourist. Of course, there are always thorns with the roses: Syria s economy is inefficient, and its youth are frustrated; the strong-man political system that has held the country together does not encourage public intellectual life, but nor does it prevent young Syrians from debating with passion in private. The Syrian sense of tradition has preserved some of the bad along with the good, and society remains highly patriarchal. Despite such drawbacks, this is a country that s rich not only in resources, but also, and especially, in its people.